We arrived in Kumasi, the second largest city in Ghana, with a population of 1 1/2 to 2 million people, a little after 8:00 a.m. and found ourselves in the middle of their construction area. They are attempting to build several roads in Kumasi and a freeway from Kumasi to Accra, the largest city in Ghana, which has over 3 million people and is about 6-8 hours away. When they build these roads, they just plow the area for the road, usually at least 4 lanes wide, but then they don't arrange for any detours or signage or anything, so it is just anything goes. Hundreds of cars and taxis go any which way, across traffic, on the wrong side of the road, whatever. It's absolute CRAZY! Kumasi is noted for its horrific drivers and traffic, and we found this reputation to be well-deserved. It began to rain just as we hit the dirt road and when it rains in Africa, it doesn't rain in drops, but in sheets, and then to make matters worse, there are hundreds and hundreds of people walking everywhere. We finally hooked up with the Zolls and followed them out of town. They have been in Ghana and Kumasi for about a year and Bud is pretty wired on how to get around.
About 2 hours from Kumasi, the inevitible happened. Zoll's car overheated in a small village in the rain. Immediately about 8 helpful Africans swarmed the car to give their "expert" help, all saying they were all mechanics. We let it cool off and then the Africans filled the radiator with rain water. Zoll had recently had his air conditioning fixed and they had forgotten to refill the water. Typical Africa! We were almost ready to pull back out onto the road, when a car and truck collided in a huge crash. Luckily, we don't think anyone was hurt and the crash was just behind where we were pulled off, so we were able to continue. If it had been a few hundred feet the other way, we would have been stuck there for hours.
The roads are generally 2 lane, connecting one little village with another. We would drive 100 miles per hour and then find ourselves stopped dead in our tracks for up to an hour. Every little village has speed bumps and the cars have to slow down when they go through the towns--not a bad idea. To make things worse, it was a Wednesday, which is market day in Ghana and EVERYONE for miles around each little town goes to market day and buys, sells, or just hangs out. Zoll led us up over the mountains and not through the freeway construction which goes on for some 50 miles and takes literally hours longer, though it covers a much shorter distance. Some of the country in the mountains was absolutely beautiful and the little villages and their market days were quite interesting and quaint.
We finally arrived in Accra, to more construction and chaos and it took another 1 1/2 hours to inch our way through the city to the temple grounds. We ended up staying right on the temple grounds in these little dorms they have for people coming to go to the temple. The grounds are absolutely gorgeous and it seems like an island of peace just off the busy streets. The dorms have 3 bunkbeds in a room, but they each have their own bathroom and the price is right -- 6 cedis per night (about $4.20). It was great to see some white people and be able to actually converse with them without asking them to repeat everything. Everyone was so gracious and we actually ran into several of the General Authorites who were there in Accra for a conference. In fact, we actually saaw the Elder Evans and his wife, who live in our ward in St. George--it was great but made us homesick!
We spent the next day shopping for American food and things we can't buy in Sunyani. Accra is quite modern and they have a few shopping malls and even a KFC (which we ate at twice!). We visited the "Pit", a crafty type place and Elder Thayne ordered and purchase a few hand-carved wooden items. Their little workshops are amazing and their tools are something out of the dark ages. Friday morning we went to the temple, met the Temple President and had a short tour. The spirit of the people and the building were incredible and the workmanship was beautiful.
Just a little way down the road from the temple, the street is lined with huge trees. Hanging from the tops of these trees are the "vampire bats." They are brown in color and about the size of a large cat or small dog. They hang and sleep all day (very visable) and at 6 p.m. every night they take off in in swarms like a large brown cloud to go out looking for bugs. It's an amazing sight and a little eerie to say the least!
We met up with Dr. Fife and his wife (delightful people from Montana). They are here to handle the medical needs for all the missionaries in West Africa which is a super-human job. She is a hair-dresser and cut Bonnie's hair and evened up Gary's hair where I had somewhat scalped him the week before. We went with them to the Mall for dinner that night.
The next morning, it was off to the airport to pick up the grandkids. Zoll is such a crazy guy. He slipped the cop at the airport 5 cedis to pretend to arrest his grandkids as they got off the plane (after a 20 hour flight!). Bonnie and I didn't think it was a bit funny, but it turned out that the kids were so tired, they didn't even get the implications and just stared at him. It was exciting seeing them hug the kids; I certainly miss our grandkids SOOO much, but of course they are much too little to make a trip like that, let alone understand or appreciate the experience. We ate KFC again in the car and started our journey back. The kids were in shock as we sped through the countryside. Taylor couldn't get over seeing everyone just going to the bathroom anywhere and everywhere. The markets were entertaining and we even bought a few bananas as we were stopped in traffic.
The trip home was pure anxiety! The traffic was terrible--white knuckle the whole way--barely missing people and cars for a full 10 sweaty hours! It got dark as we entered Kumasi (nightmare city) and to make matters even worse, lots of the Africans don't turn on their car lights at night. I guess they think it's going to wear them out or something. You'll be going along or passing a car and all of a sudden, a car looms in front of you with no headlights. It's terrifying! We left Zolls and inched our way in the dark back to Sunyani and got home a little after 10:30 p.m. It took over 10 hours to drive 300 miles (like going to Las Vegas and back from St. George)! Gary said as we were driving back, "I can't wait to get back to our little Sunyani!"
The next day, Zolls took their grandkids to a little town named Bibioni where they baptised 42 people again in a little river behind the church. Taylor got to perform a few of the baptisms. What a great experience for that young man!
I just love to hear about your adventures! The driving chaos brings back memories. Something tells me the little pooper truck would fit right in in Sunyani!
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