An African Christmas

We had scheduled a District Christmas Devotional to be held the Friday before Christmas and had decided to hold it at the Penkwase Chapel as it is the building with the largest hall. It was truly a lovely evening. The children from all four branches began the festivities by singing "Jingle Bells" while they each rang a tiny bell. They love this song, even though none of them have ever even seen snow and they didn't know what a sleigh was. I told them it was like a wagon without wheels. That seemed to satisfy them. I had spent several months making three-dimensional nativity masks for each of the branches. Each child was given a mask. We had only planned on about 30 children but they came in droads. We used every single mask and even had 4 Marys and 4 stars--they didn't seem to mind. They had never practiced together but when they held up their little masks and sang "Away In a Manger" it was absolutely breathtaking! Several inspirational talks were given and then we showed a video projected on a wall of the Savior's life accompanied with a musical background by the Tabernacle Choir. There was standing room only and we even had people seated on the porch....about 160. The Christmas spirit filled the entire building!

It was unlike any Christmas we have ever had and probably unlike any we will have in the future. We had waited to open our one Christmas package until Christmas Eve and I figured it would be a picture of the Grandkids with Father Christmas. We were so surprised when we opened it to find an entire book entitled "While You Were Gone" highlighting all the things we have missed in our children and grandchildren's lives this past year. It was incredible! We turned every page and laughed and cried and then cried some more.

We weren't certain how the next day would turn out and went to sleep Christmas Eve listening to the drums which seemed much louder than usual. We had previously arranged with the Sunyani Regional Hospital for a group of us to visit the Children's Ward on Christmas Day. We met our twelve missionaries, who are serving here in Sunyani, in the parking lot along with President Owusu and David so we would have someone who could interpret for us as none of us speak Twi. Elder Larsen gave a beautiful prayer and then we paraded in through the front doors. It was eerily quiet. This hospital is usually bustling and crowded with hundreds of people waiting to be seen for some ailment or another. Today it was empty. We met the nurse and she led us through several of the barracks-type buildings until we reached the Children's bungalow. We went in and the nurses explained that a lot of the children had gone home for the day if they were able, and that only the very sick ones ot those that did not have families remained.

We then visited every bedside and gave them biscuits (cookies), juice packets and some silly little plastic toy glasses that David had found in the market. They loved them! Some of the situations were heartbreaking. Some of the children would only smile faintly; others were very cheerful and funny. Some were frightened and others not frightened at all. The nurse then proceeded to take us to every one of the wards and we sought out every child in the hospital, whether a patient or just visiting. Everyone truly appreciated our efforts. We left the remaining toys and treats for the sick children who would be returning the next day. We were thanked again and again by the doctors, the patients and their families, and the nurses. It warmed our hearts.

At the last station, we gathered together with the nurses on that ward. David gave a simple, humble, beautiful prayer blessing the children and praying that they would get better. As he prayed, from somewhere in the hospital we could hear the song "Angels We Have Heard on High". When he finished not a word was said. We all just looked up and the nurses as well as some of the missionaries were quietly crying. It was such a touching moment-one I hope I will never forget!

We then went to Nkwabeng and had a chicken and rice dinner with the missionaries and let them watch a movie before going back to their apartments to call home. This Christmas was unpretentious, uncommercial, rather quiet, yet touching and simple--the way I guess it really should be.

Ghana Elections

Like the USA, Ghana is a democracy and elects a new president every four years. Also, like the USA, their elections were this year (2012). With the unexpected death of their current President John Atta Mills earlier this year, the vice-president Mahama took over without much conflict or contention. His political opponent was Nana Akufo-Addo, who ran in the previous election four years ago and narrowly missed winning the presidency. Mills secured the presidency by a margin of less than 1% after a second round of voting. The political rallying between the parties went on for months, similar to the US, but not quite as intense. However, every Saturday, the streets were found bustling with demonstrators clamoring for one party or another.

Missionaries were told to stay very low-key on voting day (Friday, December 7), and warned to stay away from voting stations, due to the high excitability of Ghanaians. The night before the elections, we could hear chanting and political rallys everywhere as the sounds travel long distances here. But the next day, actual voting day, things were very quiet--strangely so. It was a very interesting process to observe however. The people had to register to vote ahead of time, and many travelled to their hometowns to vote. Many of the polling booths took place just outside of the schools, where small tables were lined up facing the street. Volunteers sat behind the tables, who checked in the voters. An armed guard or guards stood at their sides. When they cast their vote, the people would dip one finger in a permanent ink and then blot it next to the person they were voting for. The ink doesn't wear off for several days.

The people were very passionate about their elections and everyone seemed to have very distinct viewpoints about the candidates. We were a little worried that when the winners were announced there could be some contention or rioting. There was neither. The results of the elctions were not known for several days due to the difficult task of obtaining all the ballots from such obscure cities across the country. The current party retained its power and business just went on as usual. It was exciting to actually witness the democratic process in an African nation. Ghana does have the reputation of having the most stable government on the continent. For this we are most grateful.

Harmattan Winds

The weather in Ghana seems always the same--hot and humid. The combination of low altitude and proximity to the Equator gives Ghana a typical tropical climate. It does not have the strong seasonal changes that we are used to in the United States. Temperatures are reasonably consisitent throughout the year--just hot. However, there are basically two seasons in Sunyani--the rainy season (May and June) and the dry season (November through January).

When it rains, it really rains--not in drops but in huge sheets of water pouring out from black skies. Since all but a few roads are dirt, giant potholes of mud fill the streets and most of the homes have roofing that leaks. But there is something really appealing about the rainy season. Maybe because it doesn't seem as hot and sticky or maybe it's just because the skies are eerily dramatic and beautiful.

We are now entering the dry season. We still get the amazing thunderstorms but with no rain and only with wind and displays of lightening that are nothing short of fantastic. It can feel almost refreshing in the early morning, but by afternoon, it's back to the sweaty brow, sticking underwear and just plain miserably HOT! A noteworthy phenomenon in this part of the world is the harmattan winds, which blow from the northeast during the dry season, bringing dust from the Sahara and reducing visability. The harmattan has little effect, except it is a nightmare to try to keep anything clean as every day EVERYTHING is covered with a fine, silty red dust. It drives President Thayne nuts as he is such a neat freak, so he is forever dusting his bike, the porch, the truck and anything else that is outside.

Sometimes It's All Worth It!

It started out like any other Sunday: up early, no walks, prayers, shower, get everything ready and out the door to one or several of the four branches, depending on President Thayne's responsibilities and agenda. Mission in Sunyani is difficult. Sometimes we get discouraged because EVERYTHING takes so long to initiate and then bring to fruition. It's like three steps forward and then two steps back, but we keep reminding ourselves that at least we are moving ahead, even if it is, oh, so slowly.

We had to attend Estates Sacrament Meeting as a young man was being ordained to be an Elder. I had forgotten that several months ago, in Primary Leadership Training, the question was asked about the Primary Sacrament Presentation. I explained a little about it and told them it should be done before the end of the year, but better the end of November before the Christmas season begins. Because our Primary organizations in Sunyani had still not even received some of the manuals, I figured it would be a miracle to expect a Sacrament Meeting Presentation.

When we walked into the Estates Branch, I could hear the children singing in the Garage area (where they meet because there's not room anywhere else). Then just before Sacrament Meeting was supposed to start, the children marched in, oh so quietly, and filled the chairs on the front row.

President James conducted and I was astonished when he said that the Primary would be presenting the service. The real surprise came when little Emmanuella, who is a five-year old twin, stood up and led the entire congregation in the Opening Hymn (and continued for the duration of the meeting). In Sunyani, we do not have any pianos; only keyboards, which no one plays anyway. So they begin each song by having someone sing the first line or so of the hymn so that people have an idea of the tune. Then the chorister says, "One, two, sing" and they all sing--usually horribly off key and with no rhythm whatsoever. Little Emmanuella held a pen in her right hand and said very loudly and confidently, "One, two, sing"! It was incredible! She led the singing without missing a beat!

Each child then proceeded to give a talk; they sang Primary songs; and then a leader and the Branch President concluded. Tears welled up as I watched this new and infant Branch move forward in the Gospel. In Gary's closing remarks, he mentioned that in all of his years of attending Sacrament Meetings, he had never seen a 5 year-old chorister who did such a great job! Both President Thayne and I remarked as we got in the car to leave, that maybe, just maybe, some of the things we are trying so desperately to teach them are truly sinking in.

We found out later that day, as we visited each of the Branches, that three out of the four had their Primary Sacrament Meeting Presentation that day and that the fourth is scheduled next month.

As long as I live I shall never ever forget that tiny little African girl standing in front of an entire congregation and leading them all through the entire meeting without a piano, completely a'capella. Elder Riddle bore his testimony at the end of the meeting and simply stated what we all know to be true--that the children are Africa's future.

Tragedy!

We received word that Martin, a 26 year old member from Fiapre, who was serving as Sunday School President, was murdered as he was driving from Kumasi to Sunyani.

No one really knows what happened but apparently he was stopped by robbers and when he fought back, he was hit over the head and was left at the side of the road where he died before help came. Some say the Chinese murdered him for some money he had just contracted out.

Either way, it was a very sad day for our little Fiapre Branch and their members. President Mills hired a tro-tro and several of the members went with him to the funeral in Kumasi. We did not attend as missionaries are discouraged from attending public gatherings here of any kind.

Such a tragedy for a bright young dedicated man with a great future ahead of him. Life is truly fragile--especially in Africa. We are sad.

Thanksgiving

Because Thanksgiving is an American holiday, no one in Ghana even knows any thing about it. At this time we only have two Elders from the USA in Sunyani. We arranged to have them do splits so they could be together and then invited these American Elders to dinner. There of course was no turkey. The only turkey we've seen was in Accra months ago and it was incredibly small and carried the hefty price tag of 100 cedis.

So we cooked up the remaining chicken breasts we had in the freezer and mashed a ton of potatoes (with real butter we had found at Likers). We even had real stuffing, made from bread slices, cubed, then baked. Candied carrots, deviled eggs, gravy, and a huge fruit salad rounded out the menu followed with ice cream (Fanice) topped with peaches (sent by Teri) for dessert. Gary kept telling me we had too many potatoes but our hungry little Elders ate them up.

It was good for all of us obrunis to celebrate together. We get so close to these Elders they are like our own kids. It was somewhat smaller and simpler than the huge feasts and all the family at home, but it will be a Thanksgiving we shall never forget. We truly know now how very blessed we are and it makes us appreciate the things that are really important.