Like the USA, Ghana is a democracy and elects a new president every four years. Also, like the USA, their elections were this year (2012). With the unexpected death of their current President John Atta Mills earlier this year, the vice-president Mahama took over without much conflict or contention. His political opponent was Nana Akufo-Addo, who ran in the previous election four years ago and narrowly missed winning the presidency. Mills secured the presidency by a margin of less than 1% after a second round of voting. The political rallying between the parties went on for months, similar to the US, but not quite as intense. However, every Saturday, the streets were found bustling with demonstrators clamoring for one party or another.
Missionaries were told to stay very low-key on voting day (Friday, December 7), and warned to stay away from voting stations, due to the high excitability of Ghanaians. The night before the elections, we could hear chanting and political rallys everywhere as the sounds travel long distances here. But the next day, actual voting day, things were very quiet--strangely so. It was a very interesting process to observe however. The people had to register to vote ahead of time, and many travelled to their hometowns to vote. Many of the polling booths took place just outside of the schools, where small tables were lined up facing the street. Volunteers sat behind the tables, who checked in the voters. An armed guard or guards stood at their sides. When they cast their vote, the people would dip one finger in a permanent ink and then blot it next to the person they were voting for. The ink doesn't wear off for several days.
The people were very passionate about their elections and everyone seemed to have very distinct viewpoints about the candidates. We were a little worried that when the winners were announced there could be some contention or rioting. There was neither. The results of the elctions were not known for several days due to the difficult task of obtaining all the ballots from such obscure cities across the country. The current party retained its power and business just went on as usual. It was exciting to actually witness the democratic process in an African nation. Ghana does have the reputation of having the most stable government on the continent. For this we are most grateful.
Thursday, December 13, 2012
Harmattan Winds
The weather in Ghana seems always the same--hot and humid. The combination of low altitude and proximity to the Equator gives Ghana a typical tropical climate. It does not have the strong seasonal changes that we are used to in the United States. Temperatures are reasonably consisitent throughout the year--just hot. However, there are basically two seasons in Sunyani--the rainy season (May and June) and the dry season (November through January).
When it rains, it really rains--not in drops but in huge sheets of water pouring out from black skies. Since all but a few roads are dirt, giant potholes of mud fill the streets and most of the homes have roofing that leaks. But there is something really appealing about the rainy season. Maybe because it doesn't seem as hot and sticky or maybe it's just because the skies are eerily dramatic and beautiful.
We are now entering the dry season. We still get the amazing thunderstorms but with no rain and only with wind and displays of lightening that are nothing short of fantastic. It can feel almost refreshing in the early morning, but by afternoon, it's back to the sweaty brow, sticking underwear and just plain miserably HOT! A noteworthy phenomenon in this part of the world is the harmattan winds, which blow from the northeast during the dry season, bringing dust from the Sahara and reducing visability. The harmattan has little effect, except it is a nightmare to try to keep anything clean as every day EVERYTHING is covered with a fine, silty red dust. It drives President Thayne nuts as he is such a neat freak, so he is forever dusting his bike, the porch, the truck and anything else that is outside.
When it rains, it really rains--not in drops but in huge sheets of water pouring out from black skies. Since all but a few roads are dirt, giant potholes of mud fill the streets and most of the homes have roofing that leaks. But there is something really appealing about the rainy season. Maybe because it doesn't seem as hot and sticky or maybe it's just because the skies are eerily dramatic and beautiful.
We are now entering the dry season. We still get the amazing thunderstorms but with no rain and only with wind and displays of lightening that are nothing short of fantastic. It can feel almost refreshing in the early morning, but by afternoon, it's back to the sweaty brow, sticking underwear and just plain miserably HOT! A noteworthy phenomenon in this part of the world is the harmattan winds, which blow from the northeast during the dry season, bringing dust from the Sahara and reducing visability. The harmattan has little effect, except it is a nightmare to try to keep anything clean as every day EVERYTHING is covered with a fine, silty red dust. It drives President Thayne nuts as he is such a neat freak, so he is forever dusting his bike, the porch, the truck and anything else that is outside.
Saturday, December 1, 2012
Sometimes It's All Worth It!
It started out like any other Sunday: up early, no walks, prayers, shower, get everything ready and out the door to one or several of the four branches, depending on President Thayne's responsibilities and agenda. Mission in Sunyani is difficult. Sometimes we get discouraged because EVERYTHING takes so long to initiate and then bring to fruition. It's like three steps forward and then two steps back, but we keep reminding ourselves that at least we are moving ahead, even if it is, oh, so slowly.
We had to attend Estates Sacrament Meeting as a young man was being ordained to be an Elder. I had forgotten that several months ago, in Primary Leadership Training, the question was asked about the Primary Sacrament Presentation. I explained a little about it and told them it should be done before the end of the year, but better the end of November before the Christmas season begins. Because our Primary organizations in Sunyani had still not even received some of the manuals, I figured it would be a miracle to expect a Sacrament Meeting Presentation.
When we walked into the Estates Branch, I could hear the children singing in the Garage area (where they meet because there's not room anywhere else). Then just before Sacrament Meeting was supposed to start, the children marched in, oh so quietly, and filled the chairs on the front row.
President James conducted and I was astonished when he said that the Primary would be presenting the service. The real surprise came when little Emmanuella, who is a five-year old twin, stood up and led the entire congregation in the Opening Hymn (and continued for the duration of the meeting). In Sunyani, we do not have any pianos; only keyboards, which no one plays anyway. So they begin each song by having someone sing the first line or so of the hymn so that people have an idea of the tune. Then the chorister says, "One, two, sing" and they all sing--usually horribly off key and with no rhythm whatsoever. Little Emmanuella held a pen in her right hand and said very loudly and confidently, "One, two, sing"! It was incredible! She led the singing without missing a beat!
Each child then proceeded to give a talk; they sang Primary songs; and then a leader and the Branch President concluded. Tears welled up as I watched this new and infant Branch move forward in the Gospel. In Gary's closing remarks, he mentioned that in all of his years of attending Sacrament Meetings, he had never seen a 5 year-old chorister who did such a great job! Both President Thayne and I remarked as we got in the car to leave, that maybe, just maybe, some of the things we are trying so desperately to teach them are truly sinking in.
We found out later that day, as we visited each of the Branches, that three out of the four had their Primary Sacrament Meeting Presentation that day and that the fourth is scheduled next month.
As long as I live I shall never ever forget that tiny little African girl standing in front of an entire congregation and leading them all through the entire meeting without a piano, completely a'capella. Elder Riddle bore his testimony at the end of the meeting and simply stated what we all know to be true--that the children are Africa's future.
We had to attend Estates Sacrament Meeting as a young man was being ordained to be an Elder. I had forgotten that several months ago, in Primary Leadership Training, the question was asked about the Primary Sacrament Presentation. I explained a little about it and told them it should be done before the end of the year, but better the end of November before the Christmas season begins. Because our Primary organizations in Sunyani had still not even received some of the manuals, I figured it would be a miracle to expect a Sacrament Meeting Presentation.
When we walked into the Estates Branch, I could hear the children singing in the Garage area (where they meet because there's not room anywhere else). Then just before Sacrament Meeting was supposed to start, the children marched in, oh so quietly, and filled the chairs on the front row.
President James conducted and I was astonished when he said that the Primary would be presenting the service. The real surprise came when little Emmanuella, who is a five-year old twin, stood up and led the entire congregation in the Opening Hymn (and continued for the duration of the meeting). In Sunyani, we do not have any pianos; only keyboards, which no one plays anyway. So they begin each song by having someone sing the first line or so of the hymn so that people have an idea of the tune. Then the chorister says, "One, two, sing" and they all sing--usually horribly off key and with no rhythm whatsoever. Little Emmanuella held a pen in her right hand and said very loudly and confidently, "One, two, sing"! It was incredible! She led the singing without missing a beat!
Each child then proceeded to give a talk; they sang Primary songs; and then a leader and the Branch President concluded. Tears welled up as I watched this new and infant Branch move forward in the Gospel. In Gary's closing remarks, he mentioned that in all of his years of attending Sacrament Meetings, he had never seen a 5 year-old chorister who did such a great job! Both President Thayne and I remarked as we got in the car to leave, that maybe, just maybe, some of the things we are trying so desperately to teach them are truly sinking in.
We found out later that day, as we visited each of the Branches, that three out of the four had their Primary Sacrament Meeting Presentation that day and that the fourth is scheduled next month.
As long as I live I shall never ever forget that tiny little African girl standing in front of an entire congregation and leading them all through the entire meeting without a piano, completely a'capella. Elder Riddle bore his testimony at the end of the meeting and simply stated what we all know to be true--that the children are Africa's future.
Tragedy!
We received word that Martin, a 26 year old member from Fiapre, who was serving as Sunday School President, was murdered as he was driving from Kumasi to Sunyani.
No one really knows what happened but apparently he was stopped by robbers and when he fought back, he was hit over the head and was left at the side of the road where he died before help came. Some say the Chinese murdered him for some money he had just contracted out.
Either way, it was a very sad day for our little Fiapre Branch and their members. President Mills hired a tro-tro and several of the members went with him to the funeral in Kumasi. We did not attend as missionaries are discouraged from attending public gatherings here of any kind.
Such a tragedy for a bright young dedicated man with a great future ahead of him. Life is truly fragile--especially in Africa. We are sad.
No one really knows what happened but apparently he was stopped by robbers and when he fought back, he was hit over the head and was left at the side of the road where he died before help came. Some say the Chinese murdered him for some money he had just contracted out.
Either way, it was a very sad day for our little Fiapre Branch and their members. President Mills hired a tro-tro and several of the members went with him to the funeral in Kumasi. We did not attend as missionaries are discouraged from attending public gatherings here of any kind.
Such a tragedy for a bright young dedicated man with a great future ahead of him. Life is truly fragile--especially in Africa. We are sad.
Thanksgiving
Because Thanksgiving is an American holiday, no one in Ghana even knows any thing about it. At this time we only have two Elders from the USA in Sunyani. We arranged to have them do splits so they could be together and then invited these American Elders to dinner. There of course was no turkey. The only turkey we've seen was in Accra months ago and it was incredibly small and carried the hefty price tag of 100 cedis.
So we cooked up the remaining chicken breasts we had in the freezer and mashed a ton of potatoes (with real butter we had found at Likers). We even had real stuffing, made from bread slices, cubed, then baked. Candied carrots, deviled eggs, gravy, and a huge fruit salad rounded out the menu followed with ice cream (Fanice) topped with peaches (sent by Teri) for dessert. Gary kept telling me we had too many potatoes but our hungry little Elders ate them up.
It was good for all of us obrunis to celebrate together. We get so close to these Elders they are like our own kids. It was somewhat smaller and simpler than the huge feasts and all the family at home, but it will be a Thanksgiving we shall never forget. We truly know now how very blessed we are and it makes us appreciate the things that are really important.
So we cooked up the remaining chicken breasts we had in the freezer and mashed a ton of potatoes (with real butter we had found at Likers). We even had real stuffing, made from bread slices, cubed, then baked. Candied carrots, deviled eggs, gravy, and a huge fruit salad rounded out the menu followed with ice cream (Fanice) topped with peaches (sent by Teri) for dessert. Gary kept telling me we had too many potatoes but our hungry little Elders ate them up.
It was good for all of us obrunis to celebrate together. We get so close to these Elders they are like our own kids. It was somewhat smaller and simpler than the huge feasts and all the family at home, but it will be a Thanksgiving we shall never forget. We truly know now how very blessed we are and it makes us appreciate the things that are really important.
Thursday, November 15, 2012
Africa's Little People and Their Toys
Very few of the children in Sunyani have store-bought type toys or toys of any kind. That's understandable as most of their caregivers, parents or otherwise, barely have enough money to feed the family every day. Ghanaians do love their football (soccer) and on almost every dirt side street, throngs of little black urchins can be found kicking a ball (oftimes made of paper taped together or some other improvisation) between two rocks or sticks or invented goal of some kind. They are actually quite proficient at foot-eye coordination and are extremely entertaining to watch.
The smaller children are every bit as creative. We see many, many small boys (and sometimes girls) pushing an old tire or wheel of some kind along the road with a stick. One little girl huddled up in a corner stroking the matted hair of an old "barbie-type" doll with only one arm and no clothes. Another had tied a rope to a discarded trailer hitch and pulled it behind her.
One small child had made a miniature wagon out of an empty plastic cracker carton and others play with bottle caps in old plastic lids or hub caps. The most ingenious toy we've seen was a little car a small boy had constructed from an empty motor oil container.
During our game night, Face-Off, some of the events used the Coldwell Banker balloons Brittany sent us. The young children all huddle around after, as we give them the blown-up balloons to play with.
We were amazed when we first arrived, at the obedience and respect all the children always demonstrated. In Sacrament Meeting, they sit motionless, always reverent, never making a sound. We found out later that the African children are beaten severely for misbehaving or even doing anything an adult finds disagreeable. What a trade-of; I guess I'll settle for a few noisy kids.
With Christmas coming, I want to go and just purchase tons of little toys -- anything, but they actually are nowhere here to be found. But President Thayne reminds me that there is no place anyway to draw the line. I'm certain for many Christmases to come, when we watch the extravagant and expensive toys we all indulge our children with, we will think back on the simple and no-toy Christmases the Ghanaian children experience. The most amazing thing is that for the most part, at least outwardly, these little people are basically happy. They laugh and love to wave to the obrunis and if we even acknowledge them in any way, they laugh and get so excited. They are literally unspoiled by worldly things and it is amazing to watch how they look out for each other. We often see little children holding the hand and caring for even smaller children.
The government does encourage schooling and has free education for the younger ones. Many go to school; some do not. They all like school as it is better than sitting home doing chores. This is good because Africa's entire future rests in the hands of these little ones.
The smaller children are every bit as creative. We see many, many small boys (and sometimes girls) pushing an old tire or wheel of some kind along the road with a stick. One little girl huddled up in a corner stroking the matted hair of an old "barbie-type" doll with only one arm and no clothes. Another had tied a rope to a discarded trailer hitch and pulled it behind her.
One small child had made a miniature wagon out of an empty plastic cracker carton and others play with bottle caps in old plastic lids or hub caps. The most ingenious toy we've seen was a little car a small boy had constructed from an empty motor oil container.
During our game night, Face-Off, some of the events used the Coldwell Banker balloons Brittany sent us. The young children all huddle around after, as we give them the blown-up balloons to play with.
We were amazed when we first arrived, at the obedience and respect all the children always demonstrated. In Sacrament Meeting, they sit motionless, always reverent, never making a sound. We found out later that the African children are beaten severely for misbehaving or even doing anything an adult finds disagreeable. What a trade-of; I guess I'll settle for a few noisy kids.
With Christmas coming, I want to go and just purchase tons of little toys -- anything, but they actually are nowhere here to be found. But President Thayne reminds me that there is no place anyway to draw the line. I'm certain for many Christmases to come, when we watch the extravagant and expensive toys we all indulge our children with, we will think back on the simple and no-toy Christmases the Ghanaian children experience. The most amazing thing is that for the most part, at least outwardly, these little people are basically happy. They laugh and love to wave to the obrunis and if we even acknowledge them in any way, they laugh and get so excited. They are literally unspoiled by worldly things and it is amazing to watch how they look out for each other. We often see little children holding the hand and caring for even smaller children.
The government does encourage schooling and has free education for the younger ones. Many go to school; some do not. They all like school as it is better than sitting home doing chores. This is good because Africa's entire future rests in the hands of these little ones.
Farewell to Good Friends
The Zolls and the Fifes (our good friends here in Ghana) were both scheduled to leave within a few days of each other. It was so hard to realize that they were really leaving. Zolls were flying directly home, via New York City, and Fifes were going to visit their daughter in Turkey before making the trip back to their home in North Dakota. Both of them have purchased new homes, sight unseen, while here in Ghana. That's one area we feel really fortunate about as Gary's sister Shauna and her husband Rand have been living in our home and taking such good care of it.
Fifes (becuase he is the doctor for all of West Africa) already live in Accra. Zolls however, who lived in Kumasi, needed a ride to the Accra airport, so of course we volunteered to drive them. It was good to spend a few last hours laughing and reminiscing about all the "TA - typical Africa" days and the Mole and Cape Coast adventures. Bud had the radio cranked up to the Beattles singing "Leaving, On a Jet Plane"! Now it all had to come to an end. We dropped Zolls off at Fife's apartment, who were out of town, and they just laid over there until flight time. We took their new truck and headed home as it takes about 10 hours and we don't drive after dark any more.
So I now have several new skirts that I inherited from Bonnie, Gary has a new (automatic!) truck and we ended up with a lot of good food that they had left. What I want to know is why when we got so much good stuff am I still so sad and lonely? Even though they were a good 2-3 hours away, it was comforting to know that someone else understood what was happening and that we could actually call someone and have them understand what we were talking about. We really are happy for them both however. They both made huge differences in Ghana, and Zolls will forever be legends in the Kumasi area. They really broke the frontier. We shall miss them all!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)